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When assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The accolade has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small shop achieving such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.